We explain that How To Achieve A Successful Breeding? especially breeding birds for beginners. So keep reading to learn all about it.
- The courtship. In most bird species, males perform a ritual, and to attract their desired mate, you can display their colorful plumage, dance around the female, or sing. Once she responds and accepts her partner, the mating takes place.
- Selection of nesting site followed by nest construction and preparation. The nesting sites are chosen with care and both birds often carry the materials in their beaks and sometimes under their wings to the site. The nest is made from moss, feathers (often plucked from their breasts) and other soft materials.
- Egg laying and incubation. Once the female begins laying eggs, the male often feeds her, sometimes on alternate days, and stands guard at the entrance to the nest. One or both parents hatch the eggs.
- The chicks hatch, the feeding and rearing period begins: the food is regurgitated and supplied by the parents. The soft foods that parents give them are easily digested and helpful. Many birds use insects to feed their young.
- Feather hatchlings leave the nest. Once they have a feather cover on the outside and on the bottom, they will be ready to leave the nest for the first time.
- They usually return to the nest each night to sleep. At this time they have a juvenile plumage. Parents can still feed them, even though they are now largely capable of self-feeding.
- Moulting of the feathers of the juvenile stage, occurs when the young become independent birds. The first molt occurs at three to four months of age. By reaching adult plumage they must be able to fend for themselves. You have to watch them closely to make sure they are fit and healthy. This first molt constitutes a tension in the body of young birds due to the sudden and unexpected loss of feathers.
- There are certain basic premises that encourage birds to reproduce. You can choose nesting boxes, baskets, or other suitable containers. These elements need to be located far enough apart at different levels of the aviary to encourage birds to investigate their potential nesting sites. Nesting materials can be placed in the aviary, such as herbs, hemp, fine wool, moss, small branches, and chicken feathers.
Many birds are encouraged to reproduce when large amounts of natural light are available, while others may attempt to reproduce at any time of the year. Most birds choose spring as the breeding season. You can help birds to be in optimal condition by feeding them wet seeds or additional food when the breeding season is approaching. Oatmeal is very useful as it encourages birds to reproduce. Remove the oats once the bird has sat down to lay the eggs or the male may disturb it with continuous feed. Make sure that the birds are protected from heavy rains and that the nests are not too exposed, especially to strong winds. Some nest boxes need to be placed in high places as many birds prefer this extra security. Nest boxes and baskets should not be moved once they have been placed as this only confuses birds. Birds should feel safe and be disturbed as little as possible.
Once hatching begins you should avoid making any nest inspections. Some birds leave their nests when there are intruders.
One of the most frequently encountered problems is that of chicks that die in the eggs before hatching, known as “dead in the egg.” This can be caused by a variety of factors: lack of moisture, dietary deficiencies, and sometimes because chickens cannot pierce the shell when it is time to hatch. Infertile eggs can also be the product of many abnormalities, especially in young and inexperienced birds.
It is possible to determine if the eggs are fertile by looking at them through strong light. An infertile egg is clear and light in weight, lacks color and actually looks hollow. A good egg is easy to recognize.
Some parents throw their young out of the nest when they have a hard time controlling them. The theory also attributes that this occurs through inexperience in most cases.
Many large species, such as parrots, parakeets, and parakeets, can be raised by hand if necessary. An incubator or hospital cage is required. Parenting by hand, while an exhausting, time-consuming task, can be accomplished by those who have patience. Chicks should be kept at a temperature of 33 ° C (91 ° F). A cardboard box placed in the hospital cage offers adequate accommodation. Tissues should be placed at the bottom of the box to absorb excrement.
The feeding mix should be made from milk and baby cereal and should be of a consistent thickness. A dropper (or syringe) can be used to feed small chicks, and larger chicks can be fed with a teaspoon. The teaspoon should be tilted upward to facilitate ingestion of food. As the chicks develop, the mix should gradually thicken. It’s good to add finely grated cuttlefish bone and fine powdered bone meal to the mix to aid in bone formation and strong, healthy claws.
Great care must be taken to avoid excess food. Feeding them is easy using a syringe, and a greedy bird often takes too much food. When the food seems excessively distended, a gentle massage sometimes helps. All utensils must be heated before use or the chicks will refuse to eat. The change of food from liquid to solid should be done first with soaked seeds and red fruits in most cases, the use of other foods can be considered in certain species.
Australian Finches are not difficult birds to breed, but there may be one or two problems along the way. If a young couple shows no interest in building a nest, it may be the male or female that is unable to reproduce or that the pair is incompatible. Sometimes it helps to separate the couple for a few weeks and introduce other individuals. Existing sites should not be removed, but if it helps to introduce other nesting devices, if despite this there is no activity, consider changing pairs.
If chickens lay eggs but do not hatch, this usually indicates a feeling of insecurity. It may be useful to adjust the nest boxes slightly to the entrance to give them more light. Male birds in particular sometimes refuse to enter a dark hole. Alternatively, opening a little more of the opening may be necessary to allow more light to enter the entire site. Most changes, however, should be kept to an absolute minimum. In other cases where the parents are young and inexperienced, the chicks may be born and their parents may give them insufficient or no food.
Masked Grass Finches and other Austrian Finches consume large amounts of charcoal during breeding and this should always be provided to them, these birds spend much of their time on the ground taking this food and not because they are in captivity they should stop taking it. On the other hand, if they sleep with wet feathers before hatching, this moisture can help soften the shells of the eggs so that the chicks can break them, however, other times it is not useful since the parents can develop a cold. .
Softball breeding is easiest to achieve in a stable aviary. This type of bird not only requires a lot of coverage in its diet from a mixture of plants, but also needs insects to satisfy its nutritional needs. Many softball species become conflictive during the breeding season. You must keep an eye on the birds to ensure that no fighting will take place and you may have to separate the troublesome from the cage. Don’t make it necessary for birds to have to compete for live food by keeping too many birds together. It may be worth putting a lot of compost in the aviary to provide them with a valuable source of small insects. Perhaps the easiest softballs to breed are those of the starling family,
Softball chicks can also be raised in a hospital cage with a small cup of water, covered with a piece of mesh for moisture. Those who are very young need to be fed at all hours, in the morning, in the afternoon and at midnight. At one weeks old, a soft pigeon reaches a medium size and must be fed every 90 minutes as it gets older, you can feed it every two hours. During the winter months it is necessary to guarantee food for twelve hours a day so that the parents can feed their chicks correctly.
Parrots like most birds are nesters and choose logs and boxes as nesting sites. They should be supplied with wet food and rotting wood as they highly appreciate moisture, in very hot weather their nesting sites should be sprayed with a fine mist to help the eggs hatch satisfactorily. This is best done from outside the aviary preferably. All breeders need extra food when there are more mouths to feed and as much soft food as possible should be given at this time. Parrots like other birds avidly devour sweet corn (maize) when they are raising chicks. They can be given many kinds of soft food. Half-sewn crushed oatmeal porridge with sunflower seeds can be used as food. Make sure parents have plenty of fibrous foods. Green moss and carrot puree are welcome but without overfeeding them, whole grain bread in small amounts moistened with honey and water is another popular replacement. Put fruits in the diet as much as possible and keep in mind that food is eaten very quickly.
Crushed seeds and hard white whole wheat bread soaked in milk and fortified with hard-boiled egg puree are great for raising chicks. During the breeding season you must take extra care to ensure that all feeders and troughs are completely clean. Dip the feeders and tubes in boiling water every day. Remove uneaten food before it spoils. Always wash your hands before preparing bird food, especially if you have been using household sprays, insecticides or perfumed substances of any kind. Once the birds have raised two or three clutches in one season, it is advisable to separate the females from the males to avoid over-reproduction that only weakens the breed. Females can die if they are allowed to reproduce very often and it is difficult to replace her because there is less for sale than males. Many males when they lose their mate refuse to accept a new one for some time, thus ruining an entire scheduled reproduction. Many species like to use a nest box for year-round sleeping, which means you can allow them to do this without having to worry about where they will nest. In the case of roosters and chickens, if you prefer, you can eliminate the nests and baskets and instead leave roosters and chickens together since these birds usually sleep together and only look for a nest when they are ready to do so. Many males when they lose their mate refuse to accept a new one for some time, thus ruining an entire scheduled reproduction. Many species like to use a nest box for year-round sleeping, which means you can allow them to do this without having to worry about where they will nest. In the case of roosters and chickens, if you prefer, you can eliminate the nests and baskets and instead leave roosters and chickens together as these birds usually sleep together and only look for a nest when they are ready to do so. Many males when they lose their mate refuse to accept a new one for some time, thus ruining an entire scheduled reproduction. Many species like to use a nest box for year-round sleeping, which means you can allow them to do this without having to worry about where they will nest. In the case of roosters and chickens, if you prefer, you can eliminate the nests and baskets and instead leave roosters and chickens together since these birds usually sleep together and only look for a nest when they are ready to do so.
Do not allow birds to nest before they are at least eight months old or preferably one year old. Young females may suffer from egg bonding, which is when the bird is unable to expel the egg from the oviduct. It is painful, distressing, and can kill you.
Separating birds in order to identify them is useful, especially to know their age and determine when they can reproduce.
Many breeders mark their chicks with closed metal rings. It is normally advisable to do so if you plan to expose them to shows, as this shows that they are the owners and is often a condition for their entry. This involves separating the chicks from the nest to put the ring on and it should be done as quickly and carefully as possible.
The age at which the chicks are ringed varies: depending on their level of development. Finches, for example, are usually ready between 11 and 12 days of age. Never try to ring a chick if the leg has become too big. Rings for specific species can be obtained from specialized suppliers or from bird societies. The rings should fit snugly but not too tight.
Gently hold the bird’s leg, fold the hind leg again, and slide the ring over the front claws. You can bend the leg and move it without problems, you will have finished the task correctly. Only one leg is ringed, the rings are coded with letters and numbers related to the breeder’s last name, registration number and year.
Plastic rings divided into various colors can also be used to identify birds for pairing at a later stage. They are not approved for display purposes. These can be worn at any age because they fit the size of the leg. Young parakeets are always in high demand at pet stores. Pigeon breeders can find with the rings a good outlet for the inventory of surplus merchandise.
The key to success in raising birds is patience. Give your birds time to adjust to their home. Feed them properly at the same time and let them know that their home is a safe and comfortable place before expecting too much from them. If they don’t try to nest during their first season, they may very well nest immediately when the next season begins. Modify their environments as little as possible unless the birds feel restless and insecure and always observe their actions before making any major changes.
Certain species are more prepared to reproduce and appear more tame than others. Try to start with the easy species, and then use that knowledge to raise the least domesticated.